| | Published July 4th, 2012
| Barbacoa: Lively Energy, Good Food
| | By Sophie Braccini |  | | Chef Jason Moniz (left) and Michael Karp in the colorful kitchen that opens on the dining room Photo Sophie Braccini
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The latest addition to Theatre Square in Orinda has what it takes to titillate the most discriminating palate in Lamorinda. Called a Mexican Grill, a pretty ubiquitous label, Barbacoa serves food that's unique in the area: creative, seasonal, flavorful and healthy. True to the concept of co-owners Victor Ivry and Michael Karp, Chef Jason Moniz brings the techniques of authentic Mexican cooks, extracting the flavor of fresh and quality ingredients. Two weeks after opening it was hard to get a reservation on Saturday night because Barbacoa is not only good, it is also fun, energetic and relaxing.
Set in the heart of Theatre Square, Barbacoa proposes three different zones to diners: the dining room that's bordered by an open kitchen; the full bar that will stay opened as long as customers are around and where small dishes are served; and the outside patio. "So far the outside tables have been very popular," says Karp. The open air restaurant is full of energy. It is far enough from the street, but still benefits from the movement of people walking around the Square, or going to a movie.
The outside tables are bordered by flower boxes, and a large umbrella above is enough to create an ambiance yet allows diners to see the stars at night. While part of the common area of the Square, that space is now reserved for Barbacoa during open hours, between 11 a.m. and 11 p.m., but people can sit there and have their coffee in the morning if the fancy strikes them.
Moniz is creating at Barbacoa a type of food he loves. "I've always loved authentic Mexican cuisine and wanted to learn it from the local cooks in villages," he says. Moniz made study trips to Mexico, eating, getting to know and relate to the cooks, working and learning the local techniques from observation. "Mexican cuisine is very creative and manifold, it is also very tasty and healthy," he says.
One of the things he learned was re-cooking or refrying of sauces. "All the ingredients are first roasted in the oven, pureed, then refried with a little fat," he says. "It changes the texture, concentrates the flavors, and mellows out some of the chilies, removing the bitterness and adding some sweetness."
Late in the morning the kitchen is bustling with activity. Broth is simmering on a stove, beans are cooking, "some are vegetarian and will be finished with dried avocado leaves," says Moniz who prides himself in having everything made from scratch, with ingredients as close as possible to what is found south of the border.
"For example we use epazote (a tasty green leaf) for black beans and the mushroom taco, and annatto seeds paste (ground on site) for the barbacoa," says Moniz.
Barbacoa, that gives its name to the restaurant, is pork marinated in annatto, citrus and garlic, and roasted in the big Aztec wood stove that has a place of honor in the middle of the kitchen. It is one of the staples of a menu that offers a wide variety of options to people with different tastes, dietary needs and spending habits. There are a lot of meats, seafood and vegetables in the menu, served as tacos, big plates, salads, or soups. The bodin de elote (zucchini pudding) or the Empanada de Flor de Calabaza (stuffed zucchini flowers) will surprise and delight some customers. The barbacoa is definitely a must try, as well as the rotisserie items. Being able to order tacos individually and mixing the types is a great idea; the variety of fish dishes is a wonderful option. The full bar features an extensive list of cerveza, tequila and cocktails.
Ivry and Karp, who also own Table 24, wanted this concept of an authentic Mexican cantina to be embodied in every element of the restaurant, including the dcor and the music. "Our architect, The Construction Zone, also has a shop and built some of the elements such as the planters. They hand-clad all the steel counters, the gleaming copper hood, and built the banquets," says Karp. The walls of the open kitchen are tiled with imported Mexican tiles, and Arizona artist Lalo Cota came for 10 days from Phoenix to paint the colorful murals.
"We offer an opportunity for all demographics to come out and enjoy themselves," says Karp. "Someone can order one taco and a side of beans, while another can have a premium item. We cater to children, families, and adults later in the night."
For more information, visit barbacoaorinda.com.
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Lamorinda Weekly, Moraga CA